Of gastronomical experiences
It’s so difficult for me to believe that I am halfway through with my time in Rome. As tempted as I am to strike days off the calendar and smile at how close home seems, I am not yet ready to start counting down. I am so fortunate to have got the opportunity to spend two months in Rome, and I want to soak in and savour every remaining moment of it (along with the heat and sweat, ew).
This evening my friend and roommate Nora and I went out for aperitivo. Aperitivo, or “aperitif” is a uniquely Italian/ French/ Eastern Mediterranean concept. But if you really think about it, not really. Remember the time you went to a bar, and drank until you were hungry, and then gorged on bowls of peanuts and chips? Conceptually, this drink and snack combination is what aperitivo is, except that many aperitivo bars in Italy actually serve full meals, buffet style.
Nora and I went to an aperitivo bar called Freni e Frizioni, or literally, “Brakes and Clutches”, about a minute’s walk from our apartment. The bar itself consists of two little rooms, one with the main bar and another with a vegetarian spread of salads, fruit, breads and pasta. For 8 euros, you can get a drink, and as much food as you can eat. It was delicious. Freni attracts a young, bohemian crowd that occupies the inside of the restaurant, as well as the entire piazza outside of it. Nora and I sat on the steps between Freni and our street Vicolo del Cinque, and were forced to make very little conversation as we chomped our way through the deliciousness that enticed us from our plates, before heading back for seconds. The highlight of the meal was the pesto pasta, even though (or probably because) it was drowning in olive oil, and the jewel rice salad [Nora has pictures so I will upload those later].
I think the aperitivo concept is a win for everyone. Nora and I were very restrained (!) but many if not most people would presumably buy multiple drinks, for 8 euros each, but feel good about themselves knowing that they can also eat as much as they want - even though the first drink itself guarantees unlimited food. And Freni makes money because everyone pays 8 euros per drink, and presumably eats less with every drink as the night progresses. I wonder if something like an aperitivo bar would work in Delhi - I don’t see why not!
After dinner Nora and I walked around for about 45 minutes - and this is the smartest thing we could have done. We went to Campo di Fiori - a square near the Jewish ghetto that houses a food market during the day, and restaurants and bars at night - and Piazza Navona - the only piazza in all of Rome that is yet untouched by crazy traffic that is so characteristic of the rest of Rome. Nora wanted to sample some gelato, but didn’t want to buy any. As we stood outside a gelaterie contemplating the immorality of sampling with no intention on purchasing, the store man hounded us, dragged us into the store, and force fed us samples of two flavours. The timing was absolutely perfect; we sampled, grunted in approval, and left very happy.
Here are some pictures from our last visit to Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona [Picture 1: colourful pasta at Campo dei Fiori; Pictures 2 and 3: Piazza Navona]
Until I get hold of the pictures of our dinner tonight, here’s a picture of a sinful, but much needed breakfast in Florence from past Saturday, when Nora and I were on our feet for almost fifteen hours! If I come back looking like an oversized balloon, I hope you will still love me. Good night, and ciao until next time!